What You Need To Know

CONGRATULATIONS on your new Fur-baby! If you need us for whatever reason or have questions, call us at (404) 626-6540. If possible we would love to see pictures of the pup with family as it grows. You can send to BEPoms77@gmail.com.

Warmest Wishes and Congratulations of your precious new family member, God Bless You. Janie Burnette; www.ExclusivePoms.com

What To Bring When You Plan To Place A Pup ON-HOLD

You have agreed to purchase this pup.  I have taken it off the market for you with the understanding that you are definitely purchasing.  We are giving you a “grace period” of 24-hours from the date on the receipt to change your mind.

If you change your mind BEFORE the 24-hours has lapsed, then you’ll receive your “Hold” deposit back.  If you change your mind AFTER the expiration of the 24-hour period, then you have forfeited your “Hold” deposit and it becomes non-refundable.  The funds are cashed to compensate for the loss of marketing time &/or another potential buyer’s purchase. 

We highly recommend before visiting us that you purchase a blanket or soft squeak toy.  Wash your blanket so that it’ll have your smells on it.  (Do not wash squeak toy as it damages the squeaker; instead handle it … a lot.)  Leave item with us so your new fur-baby can sleep and play with it.  During this time the smells of its mama and siblings will get onto the item.  When it’s time to take your fur-baby home the smells on the blanket/toy will go with you & your new forever fur-baby.  This will help keep the pup calm during this stressful transition as it’ll have its mama & siblings smell on it when it enters its new environment … your home.  Once you have placed your puppy on “Hold” then that is your puppy. 

Bring extra towels, a dog carrier or box to place your new fur-baby family member in.  They may or may not get car sick on their way home.  It’s best to be prepared should they get motion sickness. It’s best to not hold your pup during the drive home as it’s stressed-out and the constant holding makes its ribs sore.

Your fur-baby is ready to bond with you. If for whatever reason you cannot pick up your pup on its release date, then there will be an additional $100 charge per pup for the 1st week of Boarding. On the 2nd week of boarding, the price increases to $125 per week per pup with a max of 3 weeks of boarding. This fee will be paid in advance and is non-refundable. Cash only. This will cover the expenses of (but not limited to) puppy shots, handling, feeding, bathing, “boarding” fees, miscellaneous and our time. This fee IS NOT a part of the cost of the puppy.

What To Bring When You PICK-UP Your Fur-Baby.



Although they have the attitude and mentality they can conqueror the world, Pomeranian puppies are still very small, delicate and fragile. Because of this and that they cannot speak for themselves here’s a list of how to care for your new puppy. PLEASE READ.
  • Do take time everyday to exercise & train your puppy outside.
  • Do take your puppy outside to potty in a designated area once ever hour when you are at home. Praise your puppy while they are going & when they have finished their business. This gives them confirmation that they are pleasing their master (you) & doing the right thing.
  • Do take puppies to the vet to obtain their shots when they are 6, 9, 12, & 16 weeks old.
  • We will definitely be giving the 1st shot and possibly the 2nd shot depending if pup is with us past 8 weeks. Thereafter your veterinarian will advise when to bring for next visit and for rabies shot.
  • Puppy shots: Canine Distemper-Adenovirus Type 2-Parainfluenza-Parvoviurs vaccine mixed with Canine Coronavirus vaccine.
  • Dewormer: Pyran Panacur
  • Don’t leave your puppy unattended on a chair, sofa, bed or anything with height! … Not even for a Second!
  • Do NOT leave your small puppy unattended with a young child.
  • If you have a recliner or folding/sliding doors be careful that your pup isn’t under the recliner or in-between the door and the opening. This could cause breaking of bones or worse.
  • Don’t feed it chocolate, coffee, cob off corn on the cob, grapes, raisins, onions, garlic, chives, or tobacco.
  • Don’t allow young children to chase or mischievously tease your puppy. Doing so will turn the puppy into a dog that is snippy and frightful and something that you’ll end up tolerating and not loving.
  • Don’t hold your puppy to tight or too loose. And always use BOTH HANDS. Holding it too tight could crush its ribs. Holding it too loose it’ll wiggle out of your grasp falling & possibly breaking bones or death.
  • Don’t leave your pup/dog crated more than 6-8 hours. It’s unfair to leave the pup/dog without a chance to eliminate or exercise any longer than that.
Pomeranians are very lovable and usually are very good with children. However, it’s always best not to bring a puppy into a home with small children.  Because Pomeranians are so small, a young child can accidentally hurt them and the child could be bitten or scratched in return.
Hypoglycemia, the medical term for low blood sugar is a condition in which there is a drastic, sudden drop in the level of blood sugar in the puppy. It is a puppy disease most often in seen in toy breed puppies and usually not seen in puppies over twelve weeks of age. It is most likely caused by the uneven spurts in growth of the internal organs of the puppy, especially the pancreas. The brain will receive incorrect signals from the pancreas and not send out a correct signal for the release of a proper amount of sugar in the bloodstream. Signs of an attack are a weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, frothing or drooling from the mouth – sometimes even a seizure and drain of blood from the head. A check of the gums will show them to be pale, almost a grayish white in color rather than a healthy bright pink. The puppy can go into shock and, if not cared for properly and promptly, may even die.
  • Over-handling young puppies and not allowing them to get enough rest and sleep. Remember they are still babies.
  • A puppy refuses to eat for over a period of 8 hours due to change of home and/or food.
  • Exposure to low room temperatures for a period of time.
  • Sudden changes in their environment.

Hypoglycemia is usually first triggered by a toy / miniature puppy not eating or not being offered palatable or high calorie food. Any significant stress, such as a routine trip to the vet’s or change in homes, that occurs in the absence of a recent meal, can cause the blood sugar to drop to dangerously low levels. Because of their tiny size puppies cannot eat a lot at one time, and literally run out of fuel quickly. Puppies should be fed several times a day a high quality diet. Low environmental temperatures, infections, vaccinations, strenuous exercise such as being “played with” by young children who do not allow a toy puppy adequate rest time and inadequate nutrition increase the risk even further.

Hypoglycemia can be an inherited condition. If a female has been hypoglycemic, it’s likely that she will pass it on to her puppies. For the young pup prone to this condition, even a brief period of fasting in a toy breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic “attack”, Any significant stress, such as a routine trip to the vet’s, that occurs in the absence of a recent meal, can cause the blood sugar to drop to dangerously low levels. Low environmental temperatures, infections, vaccinations, strenuous exercise, and inadequate nutrition increase the risk even further.
Pick up a tube of Nutri-Cal with you when you bring the puppy home. You can purchase this at Wal-Mart, PetSmart, Petco or your vet’s office. If puppy becomes sluggish & doesn’t want to play feed it a 1”-2” strip of Nutri-Cal. This will pep up the puppy. Of course the pup plays hard for 5-10 minutes then sleeps for an hour. This is normal. Don’t give the puppy Nutri-cal just because you want to play with it. Feeding recommendations for puppies at risk for hypoglycemia include: frequent (4-5 times a day) feedings of high-carbohydrate, high -protein and/or -fat foods. Feeding soft moist foods may help to prevent a hypoglycemia attack due to the high sugar content. Gatorade mixed with a little honey, Ringers lactate with dextrose or Pedialyte are good products to use if dog is having an attack. These products have electrolytes, which ailing puppies need. Honey and Karo or corn syrup can be used also when in a pinch. For pups who have had recurrent or prolonged signs, monitoring the urine for ketones with a “dipstick” made for diabetics is helpful, since a return to “ketone negative status” signals a return to normalcy. If these measures don’t correct the problem, a trip to the vet is recommended. Intravenous feedings may be necessary and the vet will need to check the puppy for more serious problems.



Practice good grooming. A Pom is easy to groom and only needs brushing every few days. Use a pin brush or rolling comb for long hair and a small slicker for behind the ears. Brush in sections in the direction of the hair grain (from tail to head). To avoid mats, brush all the way to the skin carefully removing all loose undercoat.

Clip nails once a month. Clip carefully to avoid cutting the quick. Bathe with a good quality shampoo once a month or as needed. CAUTION: Brush your Pom thoroughly BEFORE bathing. If your dog is growing undercoat, and you do not brush it out before bathing, the water and shampoo will cause your dog to mat severely. In cool weather, dry your dog completely so he will not chill. After bathing, carefully clip the hair between the toe pads for sanitary reasons and tidiness. Clip up to the first joint of the leg and around the edges of the feet so that they look like tidy “cat’s feet.” Clip the unruly hair from the top of the ears by protecting the ear leather with two fingers and cutting straight across the top of the ear with the other hand. Use caution until you are experienced with this or you may cut the ear leather. Also for sanitary reasons, clip a small circle around the anus regularly. Check the anus regularly for fecal matter that may have become hardened. A blocked bowel will cause infection and death within a couple of days.

Around 10-12 weeks old, most Poms begin a stage called “puppy uglies.” As the baby coat begins to transition over to adult coat, your puppy will look rather scruffy and gangly. Depending on the puppy, he will begin to coat up and his features soften again at 6-9 months. During this stage it is important to keep your puppy well groomed, particularly exercising care to brush out all loose undercoat to avoid matting.



Here are some training tips that you can teach your pommie early.  The key is persistence and patience….

Your Pomeranian puppy is ready and willing to learn any number of things. He is like a child. Give him a guiding hand, discipline, and structure along with teaching and he will learn and be happy.

At eight weeks old, your puppy is ready to learn about his home and his expected routine. Teach him where his bed and food dish is.

Get him into the routine of waking in the morning when you want him to not when he’s good and ready.  Start potty training him.

Show him where his toys are kept. Teach him what “No” means and when that word is said he is expected to stop whatever he is doing. You might want to begin crate training.

At three to four months old, your puppy is ready to learn basic commands such as sit, lie down, come etc. Teach him to look directly at you when you call his name and to focus only on you.

Teach him basic manners such as to stop barking when you tell him to, drop things that he has in his mouth on command, and to never run away when you are trying to reach for him.

A dog crate is a necessity for your dog, through his puppy days and for his whole life. Your dog’s ancestor, the wolf, had a den to call home, a place of safety. The dog crate takes the place of the den, which is deeply embedded into your dog’s instincts. The crate should be kept in a room where the dog can go for a retreat to rest.

A dog crate can make an enormous difference in house-training your new puppy. He will not want to do his ‘business’ in the close quarters of the crate. If you take him immediately from the crate to the backyard, where he can conveniently do it there, he will get the idea quickly. Using his dog crate will make dog training easier on you and your puppy.

Dog crates come in many different styles and sizes; everything from a standard dog crate to designer dog creates. It’s best to get a crate for training your dog that’s only just big enough for your dog to lie down in, because that gives him more of a sense of security. Some dog crates come with adjustable panels, so that you can gradually increase the size of the dog crate as your puppy grows.

A plastic dog kennel with metal barred doors is acceptable with airlines, if there’s a chance that you will be traveling and would take your dog with you. For dogs with heavy fur, a wire dog kennel may be more comfortable because of the better air circulation, and a blanket could be placed over it in colder weather.

Following these simple suggestions will ensure that the dog crate you choose for your pet will provide comfort and security for years to come.

Where does your dog prefer to nap? Under a table, desk or coat? Dogs feel secure in a small, enclosed space. It is like a den to them. You can recreate that feel – and develop a healthy training environment – with a crate.

Dogs like small, enclosed spaces because of the security it offers them. Crating is not jailing your dog, and the crate should never be used for punishment. Instead, it draws on your dog’s preference for small spaces and allows you an extra measure of control over your dog. If you practice preventative training, your dog will spend time in the crate when you aren’t around to set boundaries.

One benefit of a crate is in potty training. Dogs try not to go to the bathroom where they sleep. If you keep your dog in a crate when you’re not together during potty training, your dog will try to hold it until you let him out and take him outside. Your job is to keep a reasonable schedule with plenty of chances to play and eliminate.

Choose the right size crate for your dog. Your dog should have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. Anything bigger and he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other.

If you have a puppy that will grow into a big dog, you will either need two crates of different sizes or a crate with a divider that you can move as your puppy grows.

If your dog is past the chewing stage, make the crate comfortable with a blanket and favorite toys. You want the crate to be a place your dog wants to spend time but you won’t want him to spend his time ripping up bedding. Some pups never chew bedding, others do. Never use carpeting or anything in the crate that could be dangerous if swallowed.

Introduce your dog to the crate in a low-pressure situation, not when you’re about to leave. Leave the door open and let your dog explore.

Remove all collars before you crate your puppy.

If your pup is frightened by the noise of a metal crate on a hard floor, put a towel or mat underneath the crate to muffle noise and prevent slipping.

Toss a treat – ideally a kibble of food – into the crate, then use a simple word like ‘kennel’ to get your dog to enter.

Praise your dog and close the door. Open it after a few moments.

Slowly increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed.

Don’t open the door because your dog whines. It will only teach him to whine more.
(even though it may break your heart)

A general rule for determining how long your puppy can be confined is one hour for every month that your puppy is old, plus one hour. Most three-month old puppies can stay in for four hours.

It is unfair to leave the dog without a chance to eliminate or exercise any longer than that.

The more confinement your dog has to cope with, the more exercise he needs daily. Crating is a tool that should never be used to avoid training, exercise and spending time with your best buddy.

Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so he can relieve himself. And so the reason for the trip is clear, always take your puppy on a leash to the same place


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